Rising Homegrown Artisans Injecting Vibrant Spirit into the Island's Food Scene

With its dramatic, craggy mountain vista, meandering roads and ever-changing weather, the Isle of Skye has traditionally attracted adventure seekers. In recent years, however, the most expansive island in the Inner Hebrides has been drawing visitors for different motivations – its thriving food and drink scene. Pioneering this movement are emerging Sgitheanach (people from Skye) with a global outlook but a commitment to regional, eco-friendly ingredients. This is also driven by an active community determined to create good, all-season jobs that retain young people on the island.

A Dedication to Local Produce

Calum Montgomery is raised on Skye, and he’s deeply committed to showcasing the island’s larder on his menus. “When visitors arrive on Skye I want them to value the landscape, but also the quality of our ingredients,” he says. “Our mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are the best available.” Montgomery is mindful of the past: “It holds great significance for me to use the very same produce as my predecessors. My grandpa was a fisherman who caught lobster and we’re enjoying crustaceans from the exact same sea lochs, with the same respect for ingredients.”

Montgomery’s A Taste of Skye menu lists the mileage his ingredients has journeyed. Patrons can feast on succulent scallops harvested manually in a nearby sea loch (direct from the source), and caught using traditional methods lobster from the island's capital (just a brief journey) with produce, gathered seasonings and blossoms from the garden from the kitchen garden and beach (zero miles). That connection to local bounty and producers is essential. “Last week I accompanied a young chef out with a diver harvesting scallops so he could learn what they do. We shucked scallops straight from the water and enjoyed them freshly shucked with a hint of lemon juice. ‘I've never tasted a better scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. That’s what we want to deliver to the restaurant.”

Food Champions

Journeying in a southerly direction, in the shadow of the towering Cuillin mountains, another gastronomic advocate for Skye, Clare Coghill, runs a bustling café. In the past year Coghill showcased Scottish cuisine at a prestigious international food event, offering shellfish buns with spirit-infused butter, and traditional Scottish fusion. Her venture began her café in a different city. Coming back to Skye in recent years, a series of pop-ups proved there was a demand here too.

Over a unique beverage and delicious trout cured with blood orange, Coghill notes: “I take great pride that I started elsewhere, but I found it challenging to achieve what I can do here. Getting fresh ingredients was a huge mission, but here the scallops come straight from the sea to my kitchen. My shellfish supplier only speaks to me in Gaelic.” Her affection for Skye’s ingredients, locals and landscape is evident across her vibrant, imaginative dishes, all imbued with homegrown elements, with a hint of local culture. “My connection to local traditions and dialect is deeply meaningful,” she says. Guests can use educational materials on the tables to discover a few words while they enjoy their meal.

Many of us were employed in other places. We observed the produce be delivered far from where it was caught, and it’s just not as good

Honoring Heritage with Creativity

The island's established culinary spots are continuing to evolve. A charming inn managed by a prominent islander in her traditional property has for many years been a foodie destination. The proprietor's parent authors well-loved books on traditional recipes.

The culinary team continues to innovate, with a energetic emerging talent under the guidance of an experienced head chef. When they’re taking a break from cooking the chefs cultivate seasonings and flavorings in the hotel greenhouse, and forage for wild greens in the grounds and ocean-foraged botanicals like seaside vegetation and shoreline herbs from the water's edge of a nearby loch. In the fall they track woodland routes to find fungi in the forest.

Visitors can feast on Skye scallops, leafy vegetables and peanuts in a savory dashi; premium white fish with seasonal spears, and restaurant-cured shellfish. The hotel’s nature expert accompanies visitors for experiences including wild food gathering and catch-and-release trips. “There’s a huge appetite for experiences from our patrons,” says the manager. “Guests are eager to come and really get to know the island and the natural environment.”

Economic Impact

The whisky industry is also playing a role in retain young people on Skye, in employment that last beyond the summer period. An distillery leader at a island whisky producer shares: “Seafood farming was a big employer in the past, but now most of the jobs are handled by machines. Property costs have increased so much it’s harder for new generations to stay. The whisky industry has become a vitally significant employer.”

“Opportunities in distilling, training provided” was the advertisement that a young local woman noticed in her local paper, leading to a position at the whisky producer. “I took a chance,” she says, “I didn't expect I’d get a production job, but it was a dream of mine.” She had an curiosity about whisky, but no relevant qualifications. “Having the opportunity to train onsite and study digitally was transformative.” Today she is a key team member, assisting in teaching new distillers, and has recently created her signature spirit using a distinctive ingredient, which is developing in oak at the time of writing. In different facilities, that’s an privilege usually granted to seasoned veterans. The visitor centre and bistro hire many people from around the local peninsula. “We meld into the community because we attracted the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital

James Lane
James Lane

A passionate travel writer and photographer based in Venice, sharing local insights and adventures.